
Afang
is an outspoken, feisty and gracefully poised 22 year-old woman
from Dong Matun Village in the Mae Jun Province of Northern Thailand.
While many Akha villagers, especially women, tend to be quiet,
soft-spoken and very shy people around foreigners, Afang is just
the opposite. She asks direct questions, she shares herself and
she is proud of her Akha heritage.
We
lived together for a month as I visited the Mirror Art Foundation
to learn and volunteer. We laughed until tears as we struggled
to communicate through gesticulations and broken translations
from our other roommates. Afang speaks virtually no English and
I speak no Thai. We have taught each other some language but more
than anything, Afang has taught me about her culture, she has
shared her life with me, generously. She volunteered information
about herself, her family and her village to me. Though I would
like to believe she shared this information with me because she
wanted me personally to know it, I believe Afang is more deliberate
than that. She knew that I was assembling the English language
Thai Citizenship Project website and she wanted a thorough and
accurate representation of the issue.
Afang
is articulate and though I don't understand Thai, I can see that
she chooses her words carefully and answers my questions very
thoughtfully. When I first asked her if I could formally interview
her for this website she eagerly agreed. And when several days
passed without me being able to do so (lack of a translator) she
pursued me wanting to know when we were going to do the interview.
She is eager to speak and share her story.
I
ask Afang for her full name and she waves her hand with disgust
and begins to speak very rapidly. Afang's name is Mie Bonya but
according to her government issued ID card she is Mie Chermu.
She explains that when she went to register for an ID card at
the district office the officer could not spell Bonya in Thai.
Chermu is a common Akha surname and the government official put
this on her ID card instead of trying to spell Bonya. In his eyes,
like many local government officials, all Akha people are the
same.
Afang
grew up with her father and her mother in Dong Matun Village near
Thailand's border with Myanmar. While it is not uncommon for Akha
men to have multiple wives, her father has only her mother as
a wife. Her mother had six children, three of which are still
alive. One died as a baby; two died as young children of an unknown
disease. Access to health care for hilltribe people is extremely
difficult, for non-citizens it is non-existent. Afang is the eldest
of three now.
She lives at the Mirror Art Group so that she can work on the
Thai Citizenship Project but eagerly travels home every weekend
to spend time in her village with her family. Though she has not
been at the organization very long she is certainly not new to
the issues that the organization addresses. She was recruited
to work on the Thai Citizenship Project after its director was
impressed with Afang's work at community forums and meetings where
she advocates for her people and her village.
Afang
has not been formally schooled which I was surprised to learn
after living with her for nearly a month. She speaks the Thai
language fluently, in fact our Thai housemate says that if Afang
had not told her she was Akha she would not be able to tell by
her speech alone. She has mastered the language and has taught
herself to read and write, all since the age of 14 when she left
her village to work in the city. This knowledge of Thai is what
has enabled her to speak on her village's behalf, communicating
their needs and their demands for the many that can only speak
Akha.
When
I ask her why she is so dedicated to the cause of Thai citizenship
she looks at me as if she doesn't understand, as if it's a non-question.
She starts by saying that she is not a citizen but she quickly
goes on to say her involvement in this work goes far beyond her
own personal status. This is an issue that faces thousands of
ethnic minorities in Thailand and she says that if she is to fight
for her own citizenship she must fight for the citizenship of
all her Akha people as well as for all hilltribe people who inhabit
this country without the benefits of citizen-status.
Afang's
grandparents converted to Christianity many years ago because
they felt it helped them to lead a more humanitarian life. Her
grandparents strongly disagreed with the Akha practice of killing
twins when they are born and banishing the mother from the village
for a year. Afang gets very agitated as she describes this part
of her heritage with which she too strongly disagrees. I ask Afang
about missionaries and how Christianity has affected her culture
and traditions. She does not believe that her Christianity conflicts
with her ability to be Akha and preserve her culture. She says
that many missionaries who come to hilltribe villages manipulate
and lie to them. She places her trust and confidence only in those
who she sees and feels live their lives according to the word
of the Bible, those who she does not trust she disregards. She
goes on to explain that her Christianity has taught her to care
about the world and people around her. As a young teenager she
was apathetic to issues in her village and community but through
her faith she has developed a strong sense of social justice and
desire to work towards change.
When
I ask Afang why she has such pride in Akha people and Akha culture
when so many of her young contemporaries are ashamed and embarrassed
of it she nods and smiles knowingly. She returns my question with
a question. How can she not be proud? This embarrassment and shame
is learned. It is taught to them by a society that leaves them
in the shadows and denies them the rights and dignity afforded
others in the country. She says this is her culture and she is
proud. Her food is delicious. Her traditions can be traced back
for generations. This is her way and she will protect it.